June 3, 2016

St Louis Road Trip

A throwback post about the adventure I had while exploring the (mostly) industrial beauty of the Gateway to the West.

St Louis was sitting among the cities I wanted to see for a long time. Even before I moved into the US, I browsed the satellite maps of the area and learned about its industrial significance with great interest. This being said, I had a list of places that I'd love to see there for a couple of years.
However, since old factories, railroad bridges, and smokestacks aren't the only things my world revolves around, it took a while for the trip to materialize. It finally happened during the fall of 2014. I put a boatload of overtime at work, and one afternoon my editor said: "Take four days off and be back to shoot that football game on Friday night." I went straight home, tossed some stuff into my car, and took off immediately. I didn't have multiple days off in ages, so I better make the most of it!
By the evening, I've arrived in Kansas City, where I had a few places marked to check out as well. But since it was dark already, I just had supper in some Swedish restaurant and went to a parking lot a few blocks away, where I slept in my car. The next morning I started at some long-abandoned chemical (I think) facility…

DSC_3057
…and then headed to see the West Bottoms, an old industrial district next to the KC's central business district.

West Bottoms (5)

There are enough interesting structures that one could spend days discovering all the elegant facades and details around.

While not many of the buildings there serve their original purpose, it seems that the neighbourhood is slowly returning to life. Businesses such as clubs, haunted houses, antiques, etc., are converting the buildings and attracting new visitors.

Yet, there are still some side streets that would easily classify as one of these where you’d not want to get lost. This turned out to be a pattern present throughout the whole trip.

West Bottoms (9)

I encountered a couple of people who acted as I interrupted them in something. They were watching me suspiciously, and as soon as they noticed that I have a camera, all disappeared away as if it would be a dynamite stick. It made me wonder what kind of exchange business they engaged in, and how it looks here once the daylight is gone.

These streets kept me occupied all morning, but I was already on my way to cross the Missouri River towards St Louis by noon. While on the interstate, I put on some appropriately dark tunes to evoke the atmosphere of all the factories I wanted to see. (Search for Robedoor’s album Primal Sphere, for an example)

somewhere along the way.

somewhere along the way.

It didn't take long, and I was entering the city. It welcomed me with loads of alarmed police vehicles and regular drivers about twice as aggressive compared to Kansas City. That wasn't the only difference; a gallon of gas was over 40 cents cheaper. As I spotted this fact, I pulled over to top-up the tank. Then I went into a hostel in the downtown to assemble some strategy for the upcoming days so I'd be able to see the most. And you know, stay safe.

The thing is, St Louis has a long tradition of appearance in the list of the US cities with the highest crime rates. Moreover, at the time of my visit, the city convulsed in racial tensions because of the unfortunate events that recently took place in the north part of the city: A white cop shot and killed a black kid, which escalated into violence, looting, and mess all over. Missouri entered the Union as a slave state, and racial inequality is far from healed - many of its neighborhoods still reflect segregation.

The owner of the hostel told me: "Go during the day and stay in downtown, you'll be all right. Be very careful in the southern and the western parts, and don't even think about going north. If you'll be lucky enough and meet someone nice, they'll tell you 'go away where you came from; you don't belong here.'" ~ "...How about the east?" I've asked. "Pff, forget the east. Just forget it," he answered. Right. But when I explore a city, I like to experience it more than by visiting a few touristy places and going home. For that, I could only buy a postcard. Long story short, I have prepared some points of interest to see in each direction.

However, it's true that I felt the tense atmosphere on every corner, so I started safely with in the city centre; where is this brilliant piece of engineering.

Gateway Arch (1)

The Gateway Arch: Nearly 200 meters (630ft) tall arch from stainless steel, erected in 1965.

Gateway Arch (3)

People can take an elevator and go all the way up, where is an observation deck. But at the time I got there, it was already after the closing time. That exposed, I went to get a vantage point above the city from a few high-rises instead.

St Louis (1)

St Louis (2)

St Louis (3)

Late into the night, I went back to the hostel. I booked just one night but thought about extending it. Now, though, I went straight to bed, as it was a long day. However, as I was about to fall asleep, I heard some scratching hum getting into the room. "Some burglars?!" came to my mind, and I was alert again. I couldn't see any motion in the dark, but the noises were still present. So, I turned my flashlight on, and, "What the…" I saw two rats on the floor. Oh, that quickly answered whether I'll be staying here for another day. Not!

The first thing I did the next morning was to get on the top of the arch. It is quite an experience; the elevators are rounded because they rotate during the way up to compensate for the arch's curve. They are cool, but rather small, too. If you are 6'6" as I am, you end up wishing for something more spacious.

The windows of the observation deck aren't humongous either, but good enough to enjoy the excellent views.

St Louis (4)

DSC_3327

The arch also offers a good view of the bridges over the Mississippi River. These were the next thing I wanted to check out up close. As I went down to the riverfront, I noted a steam cruise boat, getting ready to depart. It brought pleasant memories of a place down the stream, New Orleans, where I took a similar boat about a year ago. I opted to repeat this experience and got on board to see the bridges and other city bits from the water.

Eads Bridge (1874) in front, then Martin Luther King Bridge (1951) and Stan Musial Veterans Memorial Bridge (2013)

Eads Bridge (1874) in front, then Martin Luther King Bridge (1951) and Stan Musial Veterans Memorial Bridge (2013)

I was mainly interested in the Eads Bridge because it has pioneered many construction methods and was a major milestone in large industrial projects.

Eads Bridge

Eads Bridge

..but the rest ain't dull either.

2013s Stan Musial Veterans Memorial Bridge

Stan Musial Veterans Memorial Bridge

Another bridge which I saw from the boat was the MacArthur's (1917). Like the Eads, it used to be for both cars and trains. However, the car deck was closed in the '80s due to its bad condition, and nowadays, it is railroad only.

MacArthur Bridge

MacArthur Bridge. This picture sums why I love to take photographs of old industrial structures during the fall. Rusted iron and weathered bricks complement the shades of red and yellow leaves on dark tree limbs, sticking out into the grey clouds…

The bridges weren't the only cool things to look at, as the river brought a neat perspective on two staggering former coal power plants:

After the cruise, I planned to see the city from the street level. But before I did, I got myself on the roof of yet another building..

Gateway Arch (2)

...and then continued on foot.

I went to see the old courthouse, which is now a part of the Jefferson National Expansion Memorial Museum. It has a well-made exhibition about local slave history, and at the time of my visit, it also served as a shelter for homeless people.

Old St. Louis County Courthouse

Then I went by some other notable buildings..

..to stop by the old city hospital and its powerplant..

old city hospital

..which is now rebuilt and used as a rock climbing wall with a stylish restaurant on the top. The staff was friendly but wasn't too thrilled with the idea that I could climb the smokestack. It didn't bother me as I had a packed schedule, keeping south to visit the French district.

It has some nice architecture and also; yes, some outstanding industrial. Notably, there are a few breweries. The largest is the Budweiser, where it’s possible to take public tours. Yey!

Budweiser (1)

Out of all the breweries I was lucky to see, this was easily the best. The tour was engaging, showing a lot of the stunning complex, and introducing bits of Bud's history.

After the tour, I went straight to a former shoe company building, used to accommodate the City Museum since 1997 - another place I was looking forward to seeing, as my friends said that it's a must-see. The City Museum is a multi-storey playground and an exhibition space, which just had a show about the Chicago Architecture School in its final terra cotta ornament era. That's what I was mostly interested in; however, then I found myself on the roof with a Ferris wheel…
City Museum (1)

…and got lost in the maze of climbing frames, slides, and bridges all around.

City Museum (2)It took me a good hour before I found my way out of it. I wouldn’t think I’ll say that, but it was fantastic. If you have ever built a treehouse as a kid, or some fortress from cardboard, this would be your cup of tea.

Once I had enough, I drove to see the Cathedral Basilica of Saint Louis, a 100 years old church with the world's largest mosaic collection. It was tight 20 minutes before their closing time when I arrived, but as I took the door handle, I found out that they shut already. I was a bit disappointed but accepted that I wouldn't see the interior.

Saint Louis Cathedral (1)

But then, a group of tourists from the United Kingdom came on the scene and got upset about the early closure. They weren't about to give up without a fight and started trying all the doors, not just the main entrance. And, well, one "employees only" door from the back was unlocked. About half of the group decided to stay out, but the rest entered the church. I did have some concerns about this procedure, but it was also my only chance. "It supposed to be open for another few minutes," I justified the act to myself and got in as well, enjoyed the decoration, and left moments before the official closing time.

Saint Louis Cathedral (2)

I stayed in the area, and explored the west side of the city.

I also thought about getting on some rooftop here, as it would offer a different view of the downtown. I entered some office building and started chatting with a porter. She nodded in understanding, saying something like, "It's true; the view from up there is great, I'm there every moment I can." But then she continued, "My boss; however, isn't a fan of us going there at all...and I can't let you there… Maybe if you could convince the security guy, but I am afraid it won't happen, he's odd… But I can show you pictures on my phone I took there yesterday.." But before she did, the security guy showed up, the girl quickly hid the phone, and I got kicked out of the property. Oh well, one can't win 'em all, I guess. In the meantime, the sky turned dark, and I went for different adventures in a different cardinal direction.
DSC_3929a

I planned to visit steelworks over the river in Illinois. That caused a bit of adrenaline because, while St Louis is not a very safe place, it's over the river where the proper danger is; over the river is the east.

Generally, it is good practice to blend with the crowd as much as possible. The one who is blatantly staring around is the first one without a wallet. The same goes for parking outside the norm; only it's the radio that gets stolen. So, I put some mud on my car to cover the out-of-state license plate, and went straight into the steel plant's employees' parking lot. The car was safe and sound there, but it's not common to just walk around these areas. Yet, I had a plan for this situation: I put on dark clothes made of rough, matte fabric - excellent, as they don't reflect any light or make any noise when moving. I had a few layers underneath, so I appeared a few inches wider, too. Then I partially extended my tripod to have a good-sized metal thing in hand, ready for… picture taking, obviously, and I set off roaming the area. Shortly, I saw two people coming towards me. The street was hardly lit, nobody else around.. It got me quite scared. But I kept my pace, as and in a moment, the people went on the other side of the road. Apparently, they were even less confident than I was. "Hey hey, the costume works!" I thought and continued enjoying the environment.

Granite City

It was pretty late when I got back to the car; yet, I had one more point of interest in my mind. North of the downtown is a large abandoned factory, which, among others, has a tall concrete smokestack. My plan was to climb it, as I anticipated a spectacular view of the city from its top. I have memorized every possible detail about the plant, its history, and the current state; I was ready to roll. However, there was a kicker: it is located right beside Ferguson, a battlefield at that time. I had second thoughts about this, so I asked google about the latest crime news in north St Louis. Looking at the list of results, the newest article was published only 18 seconds ago. "Violent protests" – 10hrs ago. "Massive arrests" – 4hrs ago… "Damnit, let's skip this one," I decided. In the end, my program for the next morning was full, and some sleep would be welcomed.

That night I slept outside the steelworks, with thundering industrial noises giving me lullabies. Quite a neat experience, actually.

DSC_3940a

I woke up just before the dawn, so I could enjoy the rising sun coloring the city's skyline across the river. The air was cold, but the view worthy.

St Louis (5)

Standing there and looking through this literal gate to the west, I was thinking about the massive social differences seen in this area. St Louis is one of the Rust Belt cities where the economic decline hit hard, and while the Missouri side was able to +- resurrect its economy, the East St Louis at the Illinois side was not. Once the fourth largest city of the state, then all upper and middle class moved out, and now the place has the highest murder rate in the US (twice as in Detroit) and among the highest worldwide. Definitely not a sticker to brag about. And now, at the daylight, the devastation was fully in sight.

As I was driving through the streets, I noticed that every four or fifth car parked along the roads had a broken window. "Wow," I thought. "Not good." Given the city status, it didn’t really surprise me, but it also didn’t add any confidence to be here for sure.

The Spivey Building, built in 1927, used to be the pride of the city. Nowadays it is empty, broken, vandalized, burned.. Ready to be torn down

The Spivey Building from 1927. It used to be the city's pride, but now it is empty, broken, vandalized, and burned..

Yet, there was one spot that lured me more than the instinct to leave. Well, two, actually.

Cahokia Coal Power Plant

First, I strolled around the Cahokia station and then I went to the main goal of the morning: an old meatpacking plant, Armour. An immense facility which employed over 4000 people at its peak, but it has been abandoned for more than 50 years now.

Armour (1)

But with the hostility I saw around, visiting such a place was clearly not like going to your local grocery store. When I visited similar objects to this one in the past, I met with a variety of people. Homeless in the better case, thieves and drug users in the worse. All of these I'd better avoid today. I didn't expect any law enforcement, but maybe there could be other photographers? I thought about possible encounters I might run into. I selected the morning for my visit, as in my head, that seemed like the best chance for solitude. "Bad boys better be still asleep," I hoped.

I parked behind the building, invisible from the main road. Going lightweight, I just wanted to check out the power plant and be gone before any troubles appear. Tallgrass, garbage, and trees of all colors like from a botanical garden covered the moist ground. Above all that jungle are massive, still impressive brick walls rising towards the sky.

Armour (2)

Talking about some serious genius loci here. I am getting inside!

In the boiler room, some parts were missing, smashed, or scrawled. Nevertheless, it was a fascinating stage — dozens or even hundreds of tons of iron in preserved equipment. "In most places in Europe, all that would be in scrap metal already," I sighed.

I took a few quick pictures and mapped the environment to register a few holes in the walls that could get me out of here in a hurry, just in case. Meanwhile, I am thrilled by the machinery around. It's like an astonishing museum!

Armour (4)

I noted that one of the smokestacks has a ladder inside the room already. It started some 6-8m (23ft) above the ground, but thanks to all the pipes and wires around, the ladder was easy to reach. It opened fast access to the roof without the need to get through each level. And since the roof equals new outlooks, there was only one outcome...
Armour (6)

The steps were spaced quite far apart, but everything was holding like new, so it went nicely. The problem occurred where the ladder was supposed to get on the roof. There used to be a trapdoor, but it was jammed now by some bricks that fell from the stack and the roots of trees growing there. So, to access the roof, I had to transfer on a massive joist and climb through a broken window. The surface was partially covered by wet moss and other flora, which contributed that.. well.. one could feel the air.

Armour (7)

Once on the roof, I thought about climbing all the way up the smokestack. "Since I'm already here…" Sadly, above the roof, the stack was terribly eroded. The mortar between bricks was almost gone, and the bricks itself were disintegrating too. The metal steps weren't any better, as half of the material has rusted out, and some of them were moving in and out. It was far from ideal, but I evaluated that it should still be able to support my weight, and I decided to keep climbing. Carefully, step by step, I was getting higher and higher, and the view became better and better.

St Louis (6)

But the environment wasn't too comforting, and so besides the view and the chimney, I was constantly checking the surroundings. Somewhere in the upper half of the stack, suddenly, I noticed some motion down in the boiler room. It was a black guy, about as tall as I am, but roughly twice in shoulders. He silently browsed every corner of the ground level; moreover, he held a stick in his hand, which made a distinctive metal ding every time he touched some hard surface with it. Probably a baseball bat equipped with nails or some other iron tip.

The chimney's technical state was truly unlovable, but it was the newly gained company that got me close to a need for new trousers. I recapitulated my situation: camera in one hand, a rotten piece of metal that holds me from a 100 ft drop in the other, and one big f-word in my head. Right. Meanwhile, the giant checked all the rooms from the boiler room. "Is he searching for something? I was wondering. "Is he searching for someone? Flipping heck, is he searching for me? Is he alone?… My car! oh shoot, my car is down there with him - or them?!… To hell with the smokestack," my mind abruptly concentrated on a plan that would get me out of here, in a way that I wouldn't add to the ugly crime stats numbers, and my car wouldn't become one of those with broken windows.

I descended back to the roof while I was eagerly hypnotizing the person below me. "Don't look up!" Thankfully, it worked; he kept his eyes down. And once he finished his search of the boiler room, he left to the other building, where are the stairs to higher floors. I jumped that miserable gap between the roof and the ladder like noting and sprinted down.
Armour (5)

Once on the ground, I flew towards the hole in the wall, while paying attention not to step on some piece of glass or anything that would make a noise. The goal was to avoid any contact. Outside the boiler room, I joined one of the paths going through the forest outside.

Armour (8)

All those trees and bushes provided a good cover from others, but I couldn't see much either. "Oh-uh, hope my car is there, in one piece, if possible," I thought while I quickly moved towards the spot where I parked. "Heck, it is! And the tires aren't flat! And not a window's broken!" I celebrated while jumping behind the steering wheel and firing the ignition. As I turned around, I saw some movement in the trees. With no desire to stay any longer, I hit the gas. Passing by the trees, there was a pickup truck with another guy inside. When he saw me, the expression on his face gave the impression that he also didn't expect company. "Everyone is scared of everything here," me thinking. "What a weird place."

I wondered whether he came with the other guy, what's their mission, whether they want to load something or somebody from the plant, but this train of thoughts was overturned by Nine Inch Nails song lyrics that popped into mind: "Nothing can stop me now, 'cause I don't care anymore." And it was right. I got on the pavement, joined the westbound Interstate 70, and calmed down my heart rate from dangerously high digits. "There's a big checkmark going to be written on my list of Midwest cities to explore," I smiled. "Yes!"


Thanks for reading! If you liked this article, you might also like my other stories about my..:

Saxon Switzerland

Solo Travels

Colorado

Road Trips

You can also visit my blog archives for more categories and topics. And if you'd want to stay updated about my upcoming posts, I am on InstagramFacebook, and Twitter.

Published by: Jakub Stepanovic in Stories

Comments

Susan Copas
June 7, 2016 at 03:20

I was glad to see the Kansas City photos. In the 1970’s I worked in the area for a few months, and I would go out and explore during my lunch break. The St. Louis photos are really good. The section on the Armour plant was interesting, as now I have a better idea of what you are doing when you go into these areas.

Comments are closed.